Antique Gold and Pearl Demi-Parure, c. 1870

A special fashion in the art of the middle 19th century was realism or naturalism. In literature, Emile Zola or Gerhart Hauptmann are representatives of this style, in painting, the works of Courbet and Max Liebermann, for example, are highly appreciated. In the field of jewellery art, however, some of the works of this trend are still obscured by the shadow of history to this day. In fact, realism in the field of jewellery divides into two areas. On the one hand, there are almost mimetically reproduced flowers, gnarled branches, flowers made of enamel or finely chiseled gold sheet and birds with fine plumage, which make the boundary between nature and imitation of nature disappear. On the other hand, some of the goldsmiths and designers devote themselves to factual-technical motifs, which never before and never after became the subject of jewellery. We find knotted ribbons and loops, lugs, pistons, ropes pulled through rings, but even gears and screws, which were represented in gold. The beautifully preserved demi-parure of earrings and pendant brooch presented here corresponds to this second fashion. The oval fronts each present an applied, particularly naturalistically executed bow of triple intertwined ribbons. Their ends end in movable gold tassels that enhance the illusionistic effect. Small natural pearls set the centers of the bows. All pieces are finely gilded and shine in the warm glow of gold. A little secret, the brooch is also a locket that can hold a personal souvenir or secret in a glassed compartment. The set has been beautifully preserved in its original case.

Estimate:£1,860.25

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