Antique Rococo Style Pendant with Rose Cut Diamonds in Silver, c. 1890 & later

The late 19th century: Europe was at peace and industrialization had brought great prosperity to the bourgeoisie. Rococo, that bygone era of supposed splendor, now became a role model once again - with the difference that now it was no longer just the aristocracy who were allowed to partake in luxury. Clothing and jewellery fashion also showed clear echoes of the Rococo. As early as 1888, a reader wrote to the German ladies' journal Bazar with the observation "that in fashion [...] a tendency towards rococo is now noticeable". She wondered "whether it was a sign of good taste if the thinking reader matched her gold jewelry to the style of her costume." This trend was also reflected in diamond jewellery for the evening - and for good reason: after all, people went to balls or the opera not least to see and be seen. Pieces of jewellery that at first glance actually appeared to come from the Rococo era suggested that the wearer had inherited them and was therefore part of a long and illustrious family tree. In this period, inherited jewellery was often the only fashionable thing a noblewoman had over a wealthy industrialist's wife. This piece of jewellery dates from around 1890 and is based almost deceptively well on the jewels of the 18th century. The almost heart-shaped design consists of scrolling silver leaves, between which diamonds glitter in the centuries-old rose cut. Even the archaic technique of the closed, foiled setting was used here. The roses sparkle with a wonderfully deep, unconventional brilliance that could never be achieved with modern diamonds. The piece underwent several changes early on. Originally conceived as a pendant brooch, the interchangeable pin was lost. Only a little later – probably no more than a decade or two after its creation – the original pendant bail was also replaced. Thanks to the new, retractable and removable loop, the piece of jewellery can be worn on a fine gold or silver chain. At the same time, two hooks have been added so that the piece can also be worn, Rococo style, on a velvet ribbon. These changes can be clearly seen in the slightly different finish and coloring of the gold elements.

Estimate:£2,531.3

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