Elegant Natural Pearl and Diamond Déco Necklace in Platinum, c. 1930s

Art Déco is the first truly modernist fashion. All previous styles worked with ornaments of the past. The jewellery of the Belle Époque drew on Rococo and Classicism, the 19th century loved the Renaissance and Baroque, and even Art Nouveau was still strongly influenced by the Gothic and the Middle Ages, by Eugene Viollet-le-Duc and Ruskin, and remained mostly representational in its forms and indebted to natural models. The extent of the break that artists and artisans experienced in the 1920s is demonstrated not least by this precious necklace. Its design in platinum and diamonds is powerful. Wide bands of sparkling light form a large loop into which a precious natural pearl is suspended. In the middle section, the strands double, overlap and are held together in the centre by two further strands of diamonds. The design here is definitely figurative, but it does not reproduce natural forms or historical ornaments: It is more about rendering movement, dynamics and lines visible. The workmanship is handcrafted yet technically perfect and the materials are precious. A total of around 2.30 ct of diamonds are set in the platinum, in addition to the large oriental pearl. What they have in common is their non-colour white: the diamonds, the pearl and the platinum are similar and yet different, some with a hard shine, others with a fiery sparkle, and finally the pearl with its velvety luster. The result is a richly varied melody – in jewellery form. The pendant was created around 1930, as evidenced by its workmanship and design. We discovered it in Vienna. It is accompanied by an independent gemological report.

Estimate:£14,423.32

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