Resplendent Necklace with Natural Pearls and Diamonds, c. 1890s

The Belle Époque, the "beautiful era", is legendary for its precious jewellery. Newly discovered gemstone deposits, the financially strengthened bourgeoisie as a result of industrialization and lively trade relations between the great powers led to a rapid upswing in the jewellery sector. This upswing also had a significant influence on stylistic developments: gold and silver increasingly took a back seat as design elements, while the display of precious diamonds and pearls moved to the fore. This necklace is a wonderful example of this development. Delicate garlands of diamonds appear to float on the décolleté as they are mounted on so-called knife wires – flat precious metal bands that look as narrow as knife blades when viewed from the front. Pearls in golden diamonds shine between these fine bands. The necklace culminates in its central showpiece: a large, precious natural pearl in a slightly baroque drop shape, which is attached under an entourage motif of pearl and diamonds. Large saltwater pearls like these, which were retrieved from the depths of the ocean by courageous divers without the aid of modern equipment, were among the most sought-after treasures of the time. Their value sometimes even exceeded that of diamonds of the same size. Accordingly, large pearls and shining diamonds were reserved exclusively for the festive wardrobe. At balls, at the opera or at important receptions, the ladies of high society presented these valuable pieces of jewellery to shine in the light of the gas lamps and underline their status. Our necklace was also created for this purpose: It was intended to shine in the ballrooms of the Belle Époque and emphasize the beauty and social influence of its first wearer. The necklace comes from Great Britain and has been preserved in its original case, the inside lid of which bears the St. Edward's Crown. As to the date, compare, for instance, David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 218.

Estimate:£22,849.66

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