Spectacular Ring with 3.40 ct "Old Mine Cut" Diamond, from our Workshop

The diamond cutters of past centuries were in search of the shape that would elicit the greatest possible brilliance from the gemstone. To the modern eye, early diamonds often appear surprisingly restrained. The cutting techniques of the Middle Ages only allowed for limited light reflections, and the common table cuts of the time emphasized the brilliance of the stone and its colour, but not the inner fire of the stones. It was not until the graduated 17th century that a decisive change took place. In the Baroque period, the nobility developed a pronounced preference for sparkling gemstones, which were to unfold their effect in candlelight, and gradually, from generation to generation, diamond cutters succeeded in wringing more and more facets out of the stone. In the early 19th century, the so-called "old mine cut" became common, a cut with a mostly cushion-shaped outline of the stone. At the end of the century, after the discovery of diamond deposits in South Africa, the stones were regularly cut rounder and the "Old European Cut" was created. Finally, the modern brilliant is a development of the years after the First World War. The ring presented here shows a large cushion-shaped old mine cut diamond, the so-called "Old Mine Cut", weighing around 3.40 carats. Each of its facets was created by hand, always balancing fire, vibrancy and the weight of the stone. It is precisely this individual treatment that gives the stone its unmistakable character. We assume that the diamond was cut in the middle of the 19th century. The diamond is set in blackened silver and sits calmly in a wide frame, which is accompanied by delicate attached bars. This historical form of setting gives the stone an elegant presence and visually transforms the cushion-shaped cut into a softer, rounder appearance. The polished surfaces of the frame gently absorb the light, enhancing the effect of the diamond. The undercuts and the ring itself are made of high-carat gold. Small lilies appear on the shoulders as the only decorative element. We discovered the diamond in its original setting here in Berlin. It once formed the centerpiece of a large brooch, but this was only in pieces and impossible to restore. Our goldsmiths have preserved the historical setting and added the ring band with the gold lilies to make the diamond wearable again. The ring comes with a detailed appraisal.

Estimate:£24,590.99

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