When cavemen tied shiny stones into an animal skin pouch, they had no idea what they had just done. Whether connected with cord or animal hide thongs, tied to a toga belt or tucked away inside a robe, the purse in all its forms was here to stay.
In past centuries, women rarely controlled the ‘purse strings’ – the yarn or twine used to tie the tops of the purses – and therefore had no need for purses. When women did begin to carry money, mostly from the Victorian era, it was concealed under clothing to protect them from street thugs and pickpockets. As time passed, women wore more tailored garments, with fewer crinolines and bustles and bulk, and concealed purses were neither comfortable nor could be hidden any longer. This is when decorative but small bags were first introduced as a fashion statement.
Today, we look at these antique and vintage purses as beautiful items, but may find it hard to understand how useful they could have been. Even still, we have a passion for them and they are collectable, if not totally functional. This is because buyers have found a new appreciation for antique and vintage handbags. Styles have evolved over the decades, but designs from almost every period remain popular with collectors.
Mesh bags
Metal mesh evening bags were made in the early twentieth century by numerous companies around the globe. Mesh in varying styles, including chainmail mesh, were formed from tiny links which were hand painted or silk-screened with wonderful designs. The clasps were studded with rhinestones or painted enamel.
These are perfect evening bags, especially if you wear vintage clothes. They are generally quite small, but with the overlapping medallions of metal and ring mesh that’s supple, fluid and beautiful. Mandalian is a must-have if you collect this style, these designs are more elaborate and brighter with a distinctive style. They tend to be more expensive than the Whiting and Davis or even the elegant bags made in France. Mandalian are signed on the frames. The sterling silver mesh versions are fabulous but more expensive, so always look for a hallmark.
See also: How Coco Chanel Revolutionised the Handbag
Avoid mesh bags with unhooked links, broken threads, missing chains and twisted links as they aren’t easily repaired. Look carefully at the paint. Chipped paint will peel, especially when handled, so avoid any with surface damage, even if the price may be appealing. It's better to wait and save than to pay less and have to replace a coveted bag after a few months of use. These aren’t as popular as they were in the 1990s, and values have dropped considerably. Collectors used to frame them in shadow boxes, but home décor trends have moved on and demand is now lower. Since we tend to not get overly dressed up to go out these days, the diminutive mesh bags have been replaced by mid- to late-twentieth-century styles, fashionable to be sure, but not as dainty or impractical for today's lifestyle.
War-time bags
The war years influenced lives enormously. More women entered the workforce both prior to and during World War II, which meant they needed to have room to carry more with them, so the typical handbag began to evolve.
The bags from the war years reflected the restrictions of the time. Metals were needed for the war effort, so natural elements were used. Wicker, fabric, straw and of course plastics were prolifically used. Wicker and woven bags can be found today with fabulous printed cotton linings in floral prints, both bright and fun. Look for any broken splint or cracked handles. We expect vintage pre-loved accessories to show some evidence of use, so cosmetic issues are acceptable, but physical damage should be avoided when possible.
See also: 5 Iconic Handbags and the Women Who Made Them Famous
Bags imported from Hong Kong in the 1940s are in hot demand, especially since the lease on Hong Kong expired and it may soon be a name in history books. These bags are of fabulous quality, usually lined with silk. Hong Kong was renowned for expert tailoring and dressmaking shops, fine fabrics and stylish accessories. Many people think, incorrectly, that because a bag was made in Hong Kong, it is of low value. This means there are deals to be found, and bags with a retailer's name or address are a plus.
Post-war bags: the shoulder bag
Post-war-era handbags and purses were often made of fabric since this was more readily available. They were also soft and supple and roomier than earlier bags. While the designs were simple, the frames and clasps were embellished and bags often came with matching hats. Outfits were coordinated from head to toe, creating a very elegant look. This was about the time that shoulder bags also became part of the accessories style. Women loved being able to carry their bags while leaving their hands free. The first shoulder bags were fashioned after courier bags and satchels used during the war. Women realised that a larger bag was useful, and manufacturers and designers adapted the utilitarian styles into a fashionable accessory for everyday use.
That is as true today as it was then, and makes 1950s shoulder bags both versatile and timely. This is especially true of bags made of lighter materials, such as imitation leathers.
See also: Fashion Comes to a Head: The History of the Hat
Leathers, hides and some metals were still in short supply post war, so manufacturers reproduced the luxury look of leather in manmade textiles. For those who could afford to spend more, exotic skins were in vogue and stocked in all the high-end shops. For those who couldn’t, there finally came an option of affordable ‘fake’ skins. In fact, in the 1980s, when the ‘exotics’ bags came back into fashion, lots of companies started to make bags from synthetic skin, and those are growing in popularity today. They are colourful, soft and roomy. Today, the pouchy roomy style of the casual hobo bag, embellished with shiny hardware and trims, are becoming very desirable with collectors. Like the diplomatic pouches and satchels, they can hold the ‘stuff’ we can't seem to live without and still maintain a sense of elegance.
Vintage plastic bags and clutches
Some of the most valuable vintage bags today are the plastic ones, especially Lucite. When these were being made in the 1950s, the clutch was the fashion. Many of the vintage plastics found today are clutch style, not always convenient but certainly beautiful, fun and chic. If you love Lucite, which is a hard plastic – not always comfortable to carry – and like glass, it can crack and chip, which makes close inspection both inside and out very important. Don’t buy Lucite bags with cracks or broken hinges or lids, as this is impossible to repair.
Lucite could be made with embedded metallics, carved or moulded, and studded with crystals, confetti and rhinestones or beads. Some look like mother of pearl or tortoiseshell, and were filled with all manner of trim, from tiny seashell flowers (very collectable today and made popular in the 1940s when sold to the wealthy snowbirds who wintered in Florida, in particular Miami). If you’re fortunate, you might find a bag with its wonderful little companion compact or change purse from Myles Originals. Myles manufactured some of the most interesting and colourful bags, with the bonus of a change purse or compact. Even if those are missing, a bag with a Myles label is worth buying.
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Soft plastic clutch and handbags are light and comfortable, and generally bright, making them perfect for summer. They were also decorated with flowers, beads and interesting trim.
Of all the eras, the mid twentieth century offers some of the most flamboyant and fun bags. There are just so many fabulous designs to choose from. Thanks to internet listings, they have come down in cost and can be found for very friendly prices. Before the web caught us all, vintage and antique dealers were the only sources and the scarcity kept values higher. Today, supply is enormous and this keeps most of them affordable. They go from wonderful to whimsical and all have their merits. When it comes to buying this kind of purse, it’s what you love that matters.
Look for bags with jukeboxes, records, soda fountains and poodles printed on the plastic. They are fun, funky and fashionable, and perfect with cuffed jeans, socks and trainers. The ‘retro’ look is a growing fashion trend and you can't go wrong if you buy now while prices are still modest.
Patent leather
Watch for brightly-coloured patent leather from the same mid-twentieth-century era. Patent leather is a fine grain leather treated with oils to produce that high glazed varnished appearance. It’s water resistant and available in a vast array of colours, patterns and designs.
Want to know what your handbag is worth? Find out with Value My Stuff
Vibrant colours make them a fabulous accessory to brighten up autumn and winter wardrobes. For some reason, colourful clothes seem to disappear in the colder seasons, just when we need colour the most. A simple patent leather clutch or shoulder / cross body bag can elevate an outfit from simple to sensational, especially when teamed with matching shoes or a belt.
Where to begin
Collecting handbags can be an expensive passion. A fabulous vintage bag doesn’t have to be designer, and it should always reflect your taste. It's important to know that these aren’t investments. Trends change too quickly to rely on as money for a rainy day. As with everything, it’s important to buy what you love, and use what you buy. Shoppers are more focused today on bags they can use rather than one they can only admire, and there is no lack of choice, from hippy patchworks to tapestry bags, from around the globe to the shop around the corner. Celebrating an iconic store like Harrods, or your favourite group, alligator, fake frog, leather, pleather, wicker or whatever – it's all available.
See also: Designer Costume Jewellery: The Favourite Accessory
Few of us have the spare money for Hermès, Prada or Louis Vuitton. There are, however, designer brands which are more purse friendly, which mean you don't have to sell your collection of vinyl albums or live on baked beans on toast for months.
Look for pre-owned Coach, Guess, Kate Spade, Moschino and Isaac Mizrachi. If whimsical bags appeal, then you must check out Betsy Johnson, both new and pre owned. This brand has the most fun, fabulous, over the top, make-you-smile designs and under $100 (£75), even at retail stores. If you dream of a Birkin but your bank manager says no check Fossil crossbody.
Making the purchase
When buying pre-owned, be vigilant. There are so many fakes out there. Buy from a reputable dealer or website, like Barnebys, and be sure to check return policies.
If you love vintage, the world is your oyster (or faux tortoiseshell, mother of pearl). Enjoy yourself, be hands on and search the local consignment and thrift shops and flea markets.
Have fun with your search.
In this new world of ecommerce, the need to carry money is fast disappearing – we have debit cards, credit cards, Apple Pay – yet our bags are becoming larger every season. This is because we carry our world in our bags: tablets, smart phones, hair brush, comb, mirror, wallet, pen, lipstick, perfume, lunch, vitamins, water bottle, gum, energy bars, keys, you name it. The average weight of a handbag today is 20 lbs (16 kg). New fashion trends show bags more like carry alls or totes – more luggage than fashion accessory.
Just prior to covid, I was out shopping with a friend who drives a Mini and carries a bag the size of an aeroplane hangar. We left the shops and she dove into her bag to find her keys.
She stopped and said, “Where did I put the car?”
I looked at her and replied, “It's in the bag.”
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Article by Val Hammond
Val Hammond has been an antique and vintage jewellery dealer since 1985. She develops courses and does guest speaking across Ontario, Canada, and conducts interactive workshops on antiques and collectables for organisations, clubs and libraries. She is a contributing writer to numerous antique journals, is an online appraiser and supplies props and jewellery for television commercials and film. Val was also the Poet Laureate for the city of North York, Ontario from 1981-83, and the first female Poet Laureate in Canada.
